EPIC US ROAD TRIP 2017
DAYS 2 & 26-33 - NORTHERN COLONIES / NEW ENGLAND & CANADA - VERMONT, NEW HAMPSHIRE, QUEBEC & NEW BRUNSWICK (CANADA), MAINE, MASSACHUSETTS & RHODE ISLANDImage || Leaf Peeping. Fall foliage, Acadia National Park, Maine.
dMb US State Digest
Connecticut (CT) | Vermont (VT) | New Hampshire (NH) | Maine (ME) | Massachusetts (MA) | Rhode Island (RI)
Quick Link Regional Highlights
New Haven, CT
Burlington, VT
Montpelier, VT
Barre, VT
Moxley Covered Bridge, Chelsea, VT
Lincoln, NH
White Mountains National Forest & The Kancamagus Highway, NH
Littleton, NH
Québec City, QC (CAN)
Trans-Canada Highway (CAN)
Hartland, NB (CAN)
Saint Stephen, NB (CAN)
Eastport, ME
Lubec & West Quoddy Head, ME
Campobello Island, NB (CAN)
Bar Harbor, ME
Acadia National Park, ME
Cape Cod, MA
Hyannis, MA
Providence, RI
Epic US Road Trip 2017 – New England / Northern Colonies & Canada
New England. Rugged rural wilderness. Slow exploratory drives. Tidy, sleepy antique towns with cosy boutiques & cafes. French, de Champlain-era influence & history. Lighthouses along wave-lashed coastline. Creaking covered wooden bridges. Country fairs. Wineries. Pumpkins. Crisp air. Farmsteads and barns. Lobster and chowder. Blueberry pie.
– DiscoverNewEngland.org
Regional stereotypes abound, but it’s the brilliant and unrivalled fall/autumn foliage show that makes this region of 6 northeastern US States – Vermont, New Hampshire, Maine, Massachusetts, Rhode Island & Connecticut – the bucket list destination par excellence that it is this time of year.
Falltastic – Peeping Peepers
The natural fall foliage phenomenon occurs every year throughout a large swath of the Appalachian Mountains, right from Canada in the north through to northern Georgia in the south. We sampled the early fall delights of the All-American Blue Ridge Parkway in North Carolina on Day 27 of last year’s Epic US Road Trip 2016, not to mention the autumnal delights of Upstate New York’s wild Adirondacks in getting here to New England proper, but nothing quite compares to the fantastic foliage display one is treated to on a late September to early November foray into rural New England. And it – an autumn foray into rural New England – is quite the attraction. It’s estimated that some 8 million people descend on the region every year with each New England state tourism website doing its utmost to provide some kind of ‘Fall Foliage Tracker’ to highlight the best of the spectacle for visitors, a.k.a. leaf peepers, ‘leaf peeping’ an established and informal term for the activity of travelling to view & photograph the foliage. Don’t mind if we do.
New England – Introduction
We started our New England adventure, the central purpose of the wider road trip, by driving the 100 miles (160 kilometre) between T. F. Green International Airport in Warwick, Rhode Island, to New Haven, Connecticut. We left the region the following day, Day 2, for three-plus weeks of road-trippin’ the Middle & Southern Colonies of the Eastern Seaboard, the Deep South, & the Great Lakes region. We returned to New England’s rural Vermont on Day 26. This is a chronological look at what we saw and where we saw it.
Overlooking New Haven Green, New Haven, Connecticut.
“… the only show in town… one can’t but help get the feeling, and even accounting for New Haven’s formation over 6 decades before Yale’s, that if not for the university then there would be little reason for the city of New Haven to exist at all.”
Day 1 || September 27 2017
Route || T. F. Green Airport, Warwick, Rhode Island to New Haven, Connecticut.
Miles (Kilometres) Driven || 110 (177)
Posted From || New Haven, Connecticut
Today’s Highlight || Hitting the road
There will obviously be plenty more dashboard time ahead, but today at least we eased ourselves into Epic US Road Trip 2017. We landed in Rhode Island, the country’s smallest state, and will be back here at the end, but about all we did today was pick up the hire car and head southwest towards the state line with Connecticut, a 34-mile (55 kilometre) drive via Interstate 95 from T. F. Green Airport and 65 miles shy of New Haven, our overnight location for Day 1.
dMb US State Digest
AN ORIGINAL THIRTEEN || One of the original Thirteen Colonies. Founded as a colony in 1636. Became a crown colony in 1662.
Connecticut
State Nicknames – The Constitution State; The Nutmeg State; The Provisions State; The Land of Steady Habits. State Motto – Qui transtulit sustinet (He who transplanted still sustains). Admitted To The Union – January 9, 1788 (5th state). Population – 3.6 million Connecticuters (29th most populous state). Area – 5,570 sq miles (3rd smallest state – only quaint Delaware & time Rhode Island are smaller). Capital – Hartford. National Parks – 0. National Scenic Byways/All-American Roads – 2/0. Famous For – Being home to America’s insurance business (the country’s first insurance company opened in Hartford in 1810 & today finance and insurance is Connecticut’s largest industry); drafting what is considered North America’s – and maybe the world’s – first constitution, the so-called Fundamental Orders as adopted by the then three-year-old Connecticut Colony in 1639; building the world’s first nuclear-powered submarine, the USS Nautilus, in 1954, the first submarine to complete a submerged transit of the North Pole (1958); being home to the WWF, the World Wrestling Federation (headquartered in Stamford); the 2012 Sandy Hook Elementary School shooting. State Highlights – Nautical Mystic & time-honoured towns bordering the Connecticut River. Connecticut Titbits – New England’s southernmost state is named after the river that slices clean through its centre from north to south, the name being derived from the native Mohegan word quinnehtukqut, meaning ‘place of the long river’; Connecticut has a rich maritime history even though it technically doesn’t have any oceanfront – its coastline sits on Long Island Sound, an estuary; the state’s per capita personal income is one of the country’s highest and it has the third-largest number of millionaires per capita in the US; George H. W. Bush, the 41st president of the US, grew up in Greenwich & his son, George W. Bush, the 43rd president of the US, was born in New Haven; Connecticut clams to be home to the world’s first hamburger (1895), Polaroid camera (1934), helicopter (1939) and color television (1948); the world’s first automobile law – a speed limit of 12 mph – was passed by the state in 1901, 7 years before the introduction of Ford’s Model T; Connecticut became, in 1937, the first state to issue permanent license plates for cars; bottoms up – Connecticut (along with neighboring Rhode Island) never ratified the 18th Amendment, a.k.a. Prohibition.
Day 2 || September 28, 2017
Route || New Haven, Connecticut to Gettysburg, Pennsylvania.
Miles (Kilometres) Driven || 312 (502)
Posted From || Gettysburg, Pennsylvania
Today’s Highlight || Yale University, New Haven
Day 2. The first full day. We took a look around New Haven this morning, a glorious but windy morning in America’s oldest planned city (it was laid out in orderly blocks way back in 1638).
Connecticut (CT) || The city is home to the Ivy League Yale University, the reason we chose to overnight here last night on our first night of the wider road trip. Little did we know then that Yale is pretty much the only show in town; it’s New Haven’s largest employer, taxpayer and catalyst for economic development and while touring the Gothic-heavy campus one can’t but help get the feeling, and even accounting for New Haven’s formation over 6 decades before Yale’s, that if not for the university then there would be little reason for the city of New Haven to exist at all.
– A ‘Welcome to Yale’ posting in the Visitor Center of Yale University, New Haven.
Ivy League
With connotations of academic excellence, selectivity in admissions and social elitism, the Ivy League is a collegiate athletic conference comprising sports teams from 8 private institutions of higher education in the Northeastern United States – Yale University (New Haven, Connecticut), University of Pennsylvania (Philadelphia, Pennsylvania) , Princeton University (Princeton, New Jersey), Brown University (Providence, Rhode Island), Harvard University (Cambridge, Massachusetts), Dartmouth College (Hanover, New Hampshire), Cornell University (Ithaca, New York) & Columbia University (New York City, New York).
– CTVisit.com commenting on the New Haven region
National Scenic Byway #1 – Merritt Parkway
Set in natural surroundings, Merritt Parkway’s significant design brilliantly integrates the craft of the engineer and the artist. The bridges along the route are excellent examples of Art Deco, or Art Moderne, styles of the 1920s and 1930s. Magnificent foliage abounds in both spring and fall.
NATIONAL SCENIC BYWAYS & ALL-AMERICAN ROADS
While each state can and does designate its own Scenic Byways, a National Scenic Byway is a road recognized by the US Department of Transportation for one or more of six ‘intrinsic qualities’, they being archaeological, cultural, historic, natural, recreational, and scenic. The program was established by Congress in 1991 to preserve and protect the nation’s scenic but often less-travelled roads and to promote tourism and economic development. The National Scenic Byways Program (NSBP) is administered by the Federal Highway Administration (FHWA).
The most scenic byways are designated All-American Roads. These roads must meet two out of the six intrinsic qualities. An All-American designation means these roads have features that do not exist elsewhere in the US and are unique and important enough to be tourist destinations unto themselves.
As of November 2010 there are 120 National Scenic Byways and 31 All-American Roads located in 46 states (all except Hawaii, Nebraska, Rhode Island and Texas).
Church Street Marketplace in Burlington, Vermont.
“A lot of Burlington life seem to revolve around its central Church Street Marketplace, an award-winning redbrick-heavy pedestrian mall running for 4 blocks. A leafy & strollable precinct of shops, cafes, bars & restaurants which opened in September 1981, the so-called ‘gem in the crown of the Queen City of Burlington’ was inspired by the transformation of the main shopping district in the Danish capital of Copenhagen from traffic-snarled eyesore to attractive pedestrian mall.”
New England – The Return
After 25 days & 5,229 miles – half of which was spent driving as far into the Deep South and away from New England as we could go, the other half seeing us New England bound – we’re almost done. For the most part, we’re done with history; we’re done with music; we’re done with daily hours of Interstate driving; and we’re certainly done with the warmer temperatures of The South (I’ve long since dispensed with the flip-flops but an innate pig-headed stubbornness to persist with shorts will, I fear, last only another day or two at most). Today is Day 26 (of 33). We’ve a week-plus left and we find ourselves perched on the edge of a lake, Lake Champlain in the Adirondacks of rural Upstate New York, itself perched on the very edge – western edge – of New England. New England. The geographical region of North America this trip was initially centred on. New England. In the fall/autumn.
We first saw the leaves fall in Tennessee on Day 18 and have been treated to some nice fall foliage in parts of Kentucky, Ohio, Pennsylvania and Upstate New York almost every day since. But this, New England in the fall, is as brilliant as autumn foliage gets, an unrivalled natural display of spectacular and vibrant autumn hues that makes the 6 northeastern states we’re about to explore the bucket list destination par excellence that they are this time of year. Welcome to a week+ of slow, exploratory drives through rugged, rural, big-countryside New England, a week+ of Leaf Peeping autumnal purple, gold, orange & yellow.
Day 26 || October 22, 2017
Route || Lake George, Upstate New York to Montpelier, Vermont.
Miles (Kilometres) Driven || 143 (230)
Today’s New England Highlight || Church Street Marketplace, Burlington, Vermont
A day of two halves, the wild Adirondacks of Upstate New York in the morning & a ferry crossing into New England proper in the afternoon. We only drove a little over 50 miles of Vermont roads today, our introduction to New England proper. But 50 miles was still sufficient to get us from the shores of Lake Champlain, Vermont’s western boundary with New York State, to Burlington, its largest city, & from there to the outskirts of its capital Montpelier, itself over half way towards the state’s eastern boundary with New Hampshire. Yep, it’s a small place, Vermont. Pretty too. Oh, and quiet. And dark. Noticeably quiet and inexplicably dark.
dMb US State Digest
Vermont
State Nickname – The Green Mountain State. State Mottos – Freedom and Unity and Stella quarta decima fulgeat (May the 14th star shine bright). Admitted To The Union – March 4, 1791 (14th state). Population – 625,000 Vermonters (2nd only to Wyoming as the country’s least populous state). Area – 9,600 sq miles (6th smallest state). Capital – Montpelier. National Parks – 0. National Scenic Byways/All-American Roads – 1/0. Famous For – Being the first state in the Union to outlaw slavery; forests (80% of the state is forested); maple syrup (the state is the leading producer of maple syrup in the US); cheese, specifically Vermont’s signature sharp cheddar; dairy farms; quarries (both the country’s first marble quarry & the world’s largest ‘deep hole’ dimension stone granite quarry are in Vermont, the largest slate producer in the US); ice-cream (Ben & Jerry’s was founded in the state in 1978 and is still headquartered here); boutique wineries, small-batch distilleries & craft breweries (Vermont has the most microbreweries per capita in the US); 19th century covered wooden bridges (over 100 in the state alone); hiking; fishing; winter sports; for having the smallest & least populous state capital in the US (Montpelier); being the birthplace of Mormon leader Bringham Young. State Highlights – The great outdoors & rural fall drives. Vermont Titbits – The origin of the name ‘Vermont’ is uncertain, but likely comes from the French Les Verts Monts, meaning “the Green Mountains”; it’s the least-populous state in New England & the region’s only landlocked state; Vermont was ranked the safest state in the Union in 2016; along with California, Hawaii and Texas, the state is one of only four US states that were previously sovereign states given that the original 13 states were formerly colonies; progressive Vermont state became the first state to recognise unions for same-sex couples through legislative action with the introduction of civil unions in 2000; squat Vermont – it is the only state that does not have any buildings taller than 124 feet (38 metres).
– VermontVacation.com
Vermont (VT) || Although it only has some 42,000+ souls, making it, get this, the least populous city to be the most populous city in any US state, lakeside Burlington is still Vermont’s largest urban centre. OK, so there isn’t a whole lot to see or do in or around the town, but the pretty & hip café culture college town has an unmistakable small-town vibe that may just be its biggest draw.
– reproduced from text on display on Church Street, Burlington
Vermont (VT) || First settled in 1787, named after the French city of Montpellier & with a population of barely 8,000, it’s hard to believe this is a state capital, easily the smallest there is. The sort of place that would register as a small town just about anywhere not called Vermont, it’s an agreeable kind of place that’ll do little to offend; eyesores are kept to a minimum (Montpelier is proud to proclaim that it’s the only US state capital without a McDonald’s), but so too are the attractions.
‘This is bizarre’, I may have uttered. I can’t quite remember (I only really remember being flummoxed).
We were pretty confident it was the state capital of Montpelier, a short 40-mile drive east of Burlington. We just couldn’t see a whole lot of it to verify. It seemed abandoned, was eerily quiet & dark. And it wasn’t even that late, or so I thought – approximately 8 p.m. It was almost like the last person who left for the evening turned off the lights as they were leaving. And this is a state capital, albeit the smallest one there is. There was nowhere obvious to lay our head, no neon advertising the presence of the kind of refuge welcomed by the likes of us after a day on the road, which immediately screamed to me that they don’t get many of ‘the likes of us’ around here. Hell, there were no services signs of any kind. Nothing.
“Well, this is a bit different. The locals, evidently undisturbed by tourists, must get around on instinct,” I thought, “but only during the daylight hours.”
We needed the help of a crude map sketched out on the small piece of paper by a gas station employee to find sanctuary for the night, the Comfort Inn & Suites at Maplewood, it actually in Berlin, a town about 5 miles south of Montpelier. Maybe the state capital will be a bit more open in the morning, Day 27. At the very least we’ll see where we’re going and see what we missed of the city tonight, if anything.
Autumnal colours of the White Mountains, New Hampshire.
“Today is why we’re here. Today is what we came for. Lazy exploratory drives round these parts this time of year are going to expose you to stereotypical New England: endless countryside of blanketed rolling green; farms; swirling leaves on quiet side roads & kicking up the leaves at even quieter state lines; picture-perfect preserved covered bridges; antique villages; and of course forests of fantastic fall foliage.”
Day 27 || October 23, 2017
Route || Berlin, Vermont to Franconia, New Hampshire.
Miles (Kilometres) Driven || 213 (343)
Today’s Highlight || The fall foliage of the Kancamagus Highway of New Hampshire’s White Mountain National Forest
Today is why we’re here. Today is what we came for. Lazy exploratory drives round these parts this time of year are going to expose you to stereotypical New England: endless countryside of blanketed rolling green; farms; swirling leaves on quiet side roads & kicking up the leaves at even quieter state lines; picture-perfect preserved covered bridges; antique villages; and of course forests of fantastic fall foliage. That’s just some of what we saw, and photographed, today, Epic US Road Trip 2017 Day 27.
We kicked off Day 27 by getting a second, proper look at the Vermont state capital of Montpelier, something that didn’t take too long. Occupying less than 10 square miles, it’s a small place.
Also on display in the State House lobby are various quotes from prominent past Vermont politicians, most of which highlight the liberty-loving virtues of the state and its inhabitants – as longtime defenders of human freedom, Vermont was the first US state to outlaw slavery.
– George Brinton McClellan Harvey, 1921. Proud Vermonter & former US Ambassador to Great Britain.
Vermont (VT) || Granite. That what Barre, less than 10 miles southeast of Montpelier, is all about. Along with Rutland further south, Barre is a traditional centre for marble and granite quarrying and carving.
We tried to find Barre’s Rock of Ages Granite Quarry, a rather big ‘deep hole’ granite quarry, only the largest of it’s kind on earth. Incredulously, we failed, Google Maps leading us on a merry dance into a dead-end Barre residential neighbourhod. But suffice it to say there was still plenty of granite on display. After all, seemingly this is the Granite Capital of The World.
Covered Bridges
Probably as prototypically New England as it gets, there are over 100 authentic covered bridges in the state of Vermont alone, giving it the highest number per square mile in the US. You could spent a few enjoyable days making a pilgrimage to dozens of them, and I’m sure people do just that – distances between the bridges are small and the roads connecting them a road-trippin’ adventure in their own right. We didn’t have days, opting instead to devote all of our historic covered bridge love to the Moxley Covered Bridge outside the village of Chelsea, a modest detour en route from Montpelier to the White Mountain National Forest in neighbouring New Hampshire.
– Allen, Richard Sanders (1983). Covered Bridges of the Northeast (2nd ed.)
Heading east, it was a 30-mile drive to the blink-&-you’ll-miss-it state line with neighbouring New Hampshire, Epic US Road Trip 2017 state number 20.
dMb US State Digest
AN ORIGINAL THIRTEEN || One of the original Thirteen Colonies. Province of New Hampshire established in 1629, chartered as a crown colony in 1679.
New Hampshire
State Nicknames – The Granite State; The White Mountain State. State Motto – Live Free or Die. Admitted To The Union – June 21, 1788 (9th state). Population – 1.3 million New Hampshirites (10th least populous state). Area – 9,350 sq miles (5th smallest state). Capital – Concord. National Parks – 0. National Scenic Byways/All-American Roads – 3/0. Famous For – Levying no general sales or income tax; the New Hampshire primary, the first primary of the US presidential election cycle; quaint towns; having an extreme state motto (Live Free or Die); mountains, including the highest peak in New England (Mount Washington, 1,916 metres/6,288 feet); summer and early autumn county fairs; winter sports; lazy lakeside vacation cottages; Old Man of the Mountain, a 12-metre-tall (40 foot) natural White Mountain face-like rock formation that resembled a jagged profile of a face and which collapsed in 2003 (but which still adorns state licence plates a state highway markers). State Highlights – The White Mountains. New Hampshire Titbits – The state was named in 1629 after the English county of Hampshire; it was the first of the British North American colonies to establish a government independent of the Kingdom of Great Britain’s authority and, in 1776, was the first to establish its own state constitution; the International Monetary Fund (IMF) was born out of the July 1944 Bretton Woods Conference, a gathering of delegates from all 44 Allied nations at New Hampshire’s Bretton Woods, the aim of which being to regulate the international monetary & financial order following the end of World War II; New Hampshire was the first US state to have a legal lottery; famous New Hampshirites include The Da Vinci Code author Dan Brown, Alan Shepard, the first American in space (May 1961) and one of only 12 men, all Americans, to have walked on the moon, and Christa McAuliffe, the first private citizen selected to venture into space but who perished in the January 1986 space shuttle Challenger disaster; the world’s largest video arcade, Funspot, is located in New Hampshire; in 1996 the state became the first to install green LED traffic lights (having also been the first state to install the red & yellow variety we all know and love); in 2007 New Hampshire became “the first state to recognize same-sex unions without a court order or the threat of one.”
– VisitHN.gov
Once over the state line and into New Hampshire – by crossing the Connecticut River, New England’s longest – we found ourselves driving a short portion of the 500-mile-long (800 kilometre) Connecticut River Byway, the sixth National Scenic Byway of the wider road trip. There’d be not one but two more to come on this particular day.
National Scenic Byway #6 – Connecticut River Byway
– www.fhwa.dot.gov commenting on the Connecticut River Byway
It was another 30-mile drive from the state line with Vermont to Lincoln.
New Hampshire (NH) || Situated in New Hampshire’s White Mountains, New England’s highest range, and something of a regional winter sports hub, during the warmer months the town of Lincoln, population 1,700, is the western gateway for the regional highlight that is the wilderness of White Mountain National Forest.
White Mountains – The Heart of New Hampshire
Part of the northern Appalachian Mountains, the White Mountains more or less define the state of New Hampshire. New England’s very own slimdowned Rockies & the region’s highest range with 48 peaks over 4,000 feet (1,219 metres), it’s a huge swath of lofty wilderness & mountain passes covering about a quarter of New Hampshire and that severs the rural northern third of the state, a.k.a. north country, from the rest of the Granite State. The most rugged mountains in New England are a magnet for the outdoorsy type with almost limitless opportunities for everything from skiing to kayaking to hiking, including on a portion of the famed Appalachian Trail. Scenic drives too, including not one but two National Scenic Byways, both of which we drove on this day. So yeah, this is unquestionably the heart of New Hampshire in more ways than one.
– White Mountains Travel Guide, 2017 Edition (VisitWhiteMountains.com)
Just outside Lincoln is the western entrance to the 800,000 acres of underdevelopment that is the White Mountain’s White Mountain National Forest. This, and to quote Lonely Planet, is ‘as natural as it gets’. A powerful presence in the White Mountains and laced with biking trails, scenic lookouts and swimmable streams, people venture here to camp & hike. To just get outdoors. But for the less energetic, or for those with limited time, there’s the Kancanagus Highway. Cutting a jagged course from one side of the White Mountains to the other, this is one of New England’s preeminent drives offering awesome views of the White Mountains. Of course this time of year it also attracts leaf peepers; renowned throughout the region, The Kanc vies with the All-American Park Loop Road in Maine’s Acadia National Park for the title of New England’s best fall foliage viewing experience.
National Scenic Byway #7 – Kancamagus Highway
A little over 34 miles (55 kilometres) long & connecting Lincoln to Conway, the Kancamagus Highway – named after a Native Indian, Kancamagus meaning ‘The Fearless One’ – took 22 years to build and was completed in 1959. Stretching across the White Mountains and reaching a height of 2,855 feet (870 metres), the scenic road, devoid of any modern-day development (no gas stations, restaurants, hotels or other businesses have infiltrated this particular swath of New England wilderness), was the first road in the US northeast to attain National Scenic Byway status. Renowned for its recreational opportunities and aesthetic, cultural and historic values, the road is open year round, although traffic is heaviest during the leaf peeping fall months. And it’s not hard to see why.
– www.fhwa.dot.gov commenting on the Kancamagus Highway
National Scenic Byway #8 – White Mountain Trail (& Mount Washington)
The 100-mile-long (160 kilometre) M-shaped White Mountain Trail between Conway & North Woodstock probably doesn’t get the traffic of the better-known Kancanagus Highway even though it travels through the heart of the White Mountains while crossing three major mountain passes in the process. But mountain pass vistas are not the only attractions around here. Some 11 miles out of Conway is the Glen Junction turnoff for the twisting 22-mile drive to the summit of New England’s highest peak, Mount Washington (6,288 feet/1,916 metres). Care not to drive? Fine, why not instead turn off the White Mountain Trail at Bretton Woods, 35 miles out of Conway, and catch the Mount Washington Cog Railway to the summit where there are said to be views of ‘up to 5 states, Canada and the Atlantic Ocean’ (so says www.TheCog.com). Built in 1869, it was the world’s very first mountain-climbing cog railway and is still trundling along to this day.
– www.fhwa.dot.gov commenting on the White Mountain Trail
The iconic Fairmont Le Château Frontenac in Quebec City, Quebec, Canada.
“…the cradle of French civilization in the New World & no less than North America’s oldest walled city. In fact, it’s the only remaining walled city north of Mexico. So I can understand why North Americans (& the Chinese… oh the Chinese, who we haven’t seen anywhere over the past 27 days, are everywhere) love its jumble of tight & atmospheric walled lanes, but for us it’s just like any other quaint European town that’s a short Ryanair flight from home (but of course it’s a million miles removed from anything you’ll find over the border in the US of A).”
Day 28 || October 24, 2017
Route || Franconia, New Hampshire to Quebec City, Quebec, Canada.
Miles (Kilometres) Driven || 253 (407)
Today’s Highlight || Vieux-Québec (Old Quebec)
We first saw a Tim Hortons in upstate New York on Day 24 (we did, of course, pull over for a double-double & donut). We first saw French signposting on Day 26 in Vermont (they – Vermonters – claim this is to keep the neighbours happy). So, and with the benefit of hindsight, I guess it was coming. Today, Epic US Road Trip 2017 Day 28, we cheated. Or did we? Umm. Is an epic US road trip still an epic US road trip if you leave the contiguous 48, as we did today in leaving the US for Canada? And now that we’re here, with the damage already done, we’re debating, over a Moosehead or two, whether to take the long way back to the US. Another night in Canada? Oh, may as well be hung a sheep as for a lamb.
– VisitNH.gov
We weren’t quite done with the backyard vibes of New Hampshire just yet. Before we cheated, before we crossed over the border into Canada and shortly after we hit the road for the 250-mile (403 kilometre) drive from Franconia to Quebec City (via a portion of northern Vermont), we stopped off in Littleton. And what a charming little New Hampshire town it proved to be.
New Hampshire (NH) || Again it’s all about nature here, not surprising really given the town’s location nestled as it is between the northern White Mountains and the Connecticut River. As a result, charming Littleton, incorporated in 1784 and with a population of less than 6,000, has been named one of the best places to live in America. By whom I’m not too sure, not that that really matters.
Quebec (QC) || Founded way back in 1608, Quebec City is the cradle of French civilization in the New World & no less than North America’s oldest walled city. In fact, it’s the only remaining walled city north of Mexico. So I can understand why North Americans (& the Chinese… oh the Chinese, who we haven’t seen anywhere over the past 27 days, are everywhere) love its jumble of tight & atmospheric walled lanes, but for us it’s just like any other quaint European town that’s a short Ryanair flight from home (but of course it’s a million miles removed from anything you’ll find over the border in the US of A).
Needless to say, this city is old, 409 years old and counting. That makes it only 171 years older than the USA and a mere 259 years older that its host – Canada as we know it today got its start as the Dominion of Canada on July 1st 1867, the word derived from the Iroquoian word Kanata meaning ‘settlement’ (this settlement, present-day Quebec City). It’s the city’s uniqueness coupled with its antiquity, all that well-preserved and/or restored ancientness, that draws the hordes.
– UNESCO commenting on the Historic District of Old Québec
– Charles Dickens, American Notes, 1842
Vieux-Québec (Old Quebec)
Settled on Cap-Diamant (Cape Diamond), a promontory of the Saint Laurence River, it is Quebec City’s fortified colonial core, Vieux-Québec (Old Quebec), that gets all the attention, and rightly so. First fortified to protect against enemy attack with the construction of Fort Saint-Louis in 1620, Vieux-Québec survives today as a walled city of narrow streets & stone buildings, and an extraordinarily well-preserved, UNESCO-listed & eminently walkable one at that.
– www.quebecregion.com
We took a few strolls around Old Quebec’s Haute-Ville (Upper Town) & Basse-Ville (Lower Town) over the course of the afternoon & evening of road trip day 28 and the morning of road trip day 29. This is some of what charmed us.
– www.quebecregion.com
– www.quebecregion.com
– Samuel de Champlain, French explorer, diplomat & founder of Quebec City in his travel journal having founded his settlement in July 1608.
On Autoroute 85/the Trans-Canada Highway in Quebec, Canada.
“Staying in Canada tacks on over 100 miles of dashboard time to the drive from Quebec City to eastern Maine, with the consolation that you get to drive a 560 kilometre (350 mile) stretch of Canada’s famed Trans-Canada Highway.”
Day 29 || October 25, 2017
Route || Quebec City to Woodstock, New Brusnwick, Canada.
Miles (Kilometres) Driven || 326 (525)
Today’s Highlight || Driving the Trans-Canada Highway
We’re en route to the easternmost point of land in the continental United States. That’s a place called Quoddy Head State Park in Maine, somewhere, and while road-trippin’ the US northeast, we were always going to search out (those who know me know I love visiting geographical extremities). However, getting there via New Brunswick, Canada, was never part of the plan, the chance to do so by driving a section of the Trans-Canada Highway too good an opportunity to pass up. So that’s what we did today, Epic US (& now Canada) Road Trip 2017 Day 29.
We initially planned to retreat from Quebec City in a southerly direction towards the border with Maine, but decided instead to stay in Canada and go northeast towards New Brunswick. Doing so ensures you’re a bit off the beaten path; this is a sparsely populated part of the world with long stretches of nothing and with no attraction of note, a region to tolerate & travel though in order to get elsewhere. But when you’re road-trippin’ and when going off the beaten path takes you along the famed Trans-Canada Highway, well, then, that’s all the attraction one needs.
Rain & the world’s longest covered bridge in Hartland, New Brunswick, Canada.
“… it was a very wet, the incessant rain trying its damndest but ultimately failing to put a damper on a day that was for me rather momentous, a day when I clocked my 50th US State.”
Day 30 || October 26, 2017
Route || Woodstock, New Brusnwick, Canada to Bar Harbor, Maine.
Miles (Kilometres) Driven || 330 (531)
Today’s Highlight || West Quoddy Head, Maine, the easternmost point in the USA
What a miserable f***in’ day, climatically speaking. We saw a lot of water today, Epic US Road Trip 2017 Day 30. Not because we finally reached the New England Atlantic coastline, but rather because there seemed to be no let up in the dredging inflicted on this can be picturesque portion of North America. It was a very, very wet day from one end of it to the next, both in Canada & the US, the incessant rain trying its damndest but ultimately failing to put a damper on a day that was for me rather momentous, the day when I clocked my 50th US state.
Apart from getting wet and reaching milestones, today saw us crossing a timezone; saw us leaving Canada (twice); saw us entering the US (also twice); saw us crossing the world’s longest covered bridge; saw us reaching the easternmost point of the USA; and saw us, once again, wondering why there are no lights in New England – Vermont, New Hampshire and now Maine are spookily dark states then the sun goes down (rumour has it the states in question, even in Trump’s ‘Make America Great Again’ US of A, are too stretched to pay the lighting bill). Oh, and they are awfully boring places to be too. I understand it’s out of season right now, but gosh. There’s no doubt New England is drop-dead gorgeous this time of year (assuming the sun shines). Expect plenty of leaves. Just don’t expect a party. Yawn.
New Brunswick (NB) || Less than a thousand people call Hartland home. A tiny blip of a place in New Brunswick’s Carleton County that’s a short drive off the Trans-Canada Highway but is still in the certified middle of nowhere, there’d be absolutely no reason whatsoever to find yourself here if not for the fact that longest covered bridge in the world spans the town’s Saint John River. That’s quite the boast for such a nondescript town (sorry Hartland).
We overnighted last night in Woodstock, 16 miles (25 kilometres) south down the Trans-Canada Highway. It was there I read up on the Hartland Bridge, only the longest of its kind – the covered kind – on earth. How could we not backtrack first thing this morning (in the rain) before continuing south down the Trans-Canada Highway towards Maine? Exactly. We couldn’t.
OK Canada. We’ve had our differences, but I enjoyed you this time. You’re alright, I guess. We could be friends again, but let’s take it slow. New Brunswick slow. See you next time.
Maine. Frontier Maine. My 50th and final US state.
dMb US State Digest
Maine
State Nicknames – The Pine Tree State; Vacationland. State Motto Dirigo (‘I lead’, ‘I guide’ or ‘I direct’). Admitted To The Union – March 15, 1820 (23rd state). Population – 1.3 million Mainers or Mainiacs (9th least populous state, New England’s least populous state and the least populous state east of the Mississippi). Area – 35,300 sq miles (12th smallest state, but still the largest state in New England (it’s larger than New England’s 5 other states combined) & the largest state east of the Mississippi). Capital – Augusta. National Parks – 1 (Acadia, New England’s only National Park). National Scenic Byways/All-American Roads – 3/1. Famous For – Being tucked-away-up-there remote; rugged wilderness & forests (83% of the state is forested, the most forest cover of any US state); its jagged, rocky coastline; seafood, especially lobster (some 90% of the nation’s lobster supply is caught off the coast of Maine); fishing villages; moose (the state mammal); shipbuilding; blueberries (Maine produces some 99% of all blueberries produced in the US); Moxie, America’s first (1884) & Maine’s official soft drink.
State Highlights – Contiguous 48 extremities & Acadia National Park. Maine Titbits – The first of the region’s European settlers were the French in the early 1600s, they naming their New France colony (present-day eastern Quebec, the Maritime provinces of New Brunswick, Nova Scotia & Prince Edward Island, & Maine) Acadia – it is believed the origin of the name ‘Maine’ came from these early settlers who named it after the former French province of the same name; it’s the only US state with a one-syllable name; formally part of Massachusetts, Maine became a sate in its own right in 1820; in 1851, Maine became the first state to ban the sale of alcohol, a movement that eventually took hold nationwide as Prohibition; being the easternmost state in the union accounts for why Maine is the only state in the US to border only one other state (New Hampshire to the west); in 2010, a study named Maine as the least religious state in the US; the state’s Jackson Laboratory is the world’s largest non-profit mammalian genetic research facility & the world’s largest supplier of genetically purebred mice; Maine also produces some 90% of the country’s toothpick supply.
– VisitMaine.com
New England had been sparsely populated & rural up to this point. However, Maine, or at least the 30 mile stretch of US Route 1 we drove in getting from Saint Stephen south to Eastport, was to take sparsely populated and rural to another level. This is the start of so-called Downeast Maine, a 900-mile-plus (1,500 kilometre) stretch of rugged, jagged & oft-fogy coastline running from here to Mount Desert Island, the largest of Maine’s many thousand offshore islands and our destination for this day. This particular extreme eastern region of Downeast Maine is as far east in mainland US as you can get and the feeling of being as removed as you are never relents.
Coastal New England
We haven’t seen the Atlantic waters of the eastern US since turning our backs on it when in the sunny South way back on Day 14. And now that we’re back on the coast, some 1,500 miles north of where we last left it, it’s here to stay – we won’t be deviating too far from water as we head south through coastal New England. I just hope the conditions improve as we go – there was just a little too much water for my liking in Eastport, our first port of call in coastal New England & the frontier state of Maine.
Maine (ME) || Occupying the southeastern tip of a small island, Moose Island, means Eastport is a veritable dead end – there’s only one way in (Maine State Route 190 from the north) and it’s the same as the way out. A town of less than 1,400 inhabitants, Eastport calls itself a city making this both the least-populous ‘city’ in Maine and, more boast-worthy, the easternmost city in the US of A, the latter the only reason we swung by.
It’s only some some 5 kilometres (3 miles) as the crow flies from Eastport to neighbouring Lubec, but the region’s rugged coastal topography means it’s a 1-hour, 40-mile drive in most instances. Like Eastport before it, Lubec is also a dead end but, & unlike Eastport, this is as far east as you can go in the continental US.
Maine (ME) || Pipping neighbouring Eastport to the title of easternmost settlement in the continental US is reason enough, especially for extremity junkies, to find oneself in Lubec. It and nearby West Quoddy Head, the easternmost piece of land in the contiguous US, are the only reasons we were here.
Needless to say, the good folk at www.VisitLubecMaine.com promote the ‘easternmost town’ thing like no other US settlement can, but they also point out that Lubec offers ‘tranquility and solitude,’ ‘rugged, natural beauty’ & ‘affordability’, while making efforts to point out they do not offer ‘shopping malls,’ ‘fast food restaurants,’ ‘heavy traffic’ & ‘stop lights,’ among other urban blights. They somewhat surprisingly stop short of highlighting the Lubec attraction of enabling visitors to engage in a spot of international cross-border shenanigans (see below), although it’s no surprise that they also fail to mention the fact that you don’t need to enter the slow, sleepy settlement of some 1,400 itself to visit the region’s undoubted highlight, West Quoddy Head, the easternmost point of land in the continental US.
When we left Canada for Maine earlier in the day, I had no idea that we’d be back in the country less than 3 hours later. Access to another country – Canada – might just be one of Lubec’s highlights.
– Eleanor Roosevalt, wife of Franklin D. Roosevelt, commenting on life on remote Campobello Island, a notoriously foggy location.
Once back in the US, it was a 100-mile (160 kilometre) drive through southern Maine darkness to Bar Harbor on Mount Desert Island, the largest island off the coast of Maine. It was the start of the drive southwest towards the end – the airport in Rhode Island – and with only three days left the end, and for the first time on this evening, felt nigh.
Fall foliage off the Park Loop Road, Acadia National Park, Maine.
“We hit the road from Bar Harbor and after a few initial frustrations finding the Park Loop Road entrance, we were soon on course. And although we had probably missed the very best of the spectacle by a week (or maybe even two), the late October fall foliage, aided by the sun and the sheltered serenity of the All-American Park Loop Road, was an absolute delight.”
Day 31 || October 27, 2017
Route || Bar Harbor to Portland, Maine.
Miles (Kilometres) Driven || 244 (393)
Today’s Highlight || The All-American Park Loop Road of Acadia National Park
What a difference a day makes round these removed parts. There were very few clouds in the sky, and certainly no water falling from it, meaning today, Epic US Road Trip 2017 Day 31, we got to experience sea-to-summit frontier Maine at its falltastic best.
Samuel de Champlain – an historical regional presence first encountered on Day 26 in Burlington, Vermont & then again in Quebec City on Day 28 – mapped the coastline from Canada to Cape Cod and westward to the Great Lakes in his 1613 Map of New France, his 1604-1618 expeditions laying the groundwork for French colonisation of the New World. During those expeditions, in September 1604, he is said to have run aground on an island then know by the native Wabanaki Indians as Pemetic, meaning ‘range of mountains’ or ‘mountains seen at a distance’ (long before de Champlain ‘discovered’ Mount Desert Island, native cultures had made this beautiful island their home). de Champlain, seeing barren rocky summits, called the island ‘L’lle des Monts-deserts,’ the Island of Bare Mountains. Today 108 sq mi (280 km²) Mount Desert Island, connected to the mainland by a bridge, is the largest of the over 3,000 islands along Maine’s 3,478-mile-long (5,600 kilometre) jagged coastline, one that harbours a unique environment of tidepools, woodlands, lakes, ponds, granite mountains, beaches, offshore islands and surf-lashed coastline and most of which is protected as part of Acadia National Park, New England’s only national park. Suffice it to say, this makes Mount Desert Island Maine’s biggest crowd puller and, by extension, crowd pleaser.
– Samuel de Champlain, 1604
Maine (ME) || The centre of things, a popular tourist destination on coastal ‘Down East’ Maine and Mount Desert Island’s largest settlement with 5,300-plus inhabitants, Bar Harbor (“Bah-Hah-Bah”) is not only a seashore community but also a ‘lifestyle, an aspiration, and a very special place’ according to AcadiaMagic.com, and they would know.
We started this day, Epic US Road Trip 2017 Day 31, sufficiently dry following yesterday’s watery exploits. Having arrived last night under the cover of damp darkness, we woke this morning to crystal-blue skies over Bar Harbor. It was a nice start to the day.
Acadia National Park & Acadia All-American Road
Occupying most of Mount Desert Island and entrusted with the task of preserving rugged shorelines, lush green forests, crystal clear lakes, towering summits & offshore islands, Acadia National Park, named after the term first used by a 1524 French expedition to describe the Atlantic coast and an area that roughly corresponds to the present-day French-speaking parts of the Canadian Maritime Provinces & Maine, this is both the oldest national park in the US east of the Mississippi River & the only one in the 9 states that comprise the entire US northeast.
– Freeman Tilden, The National Parks
Acadia National Park
Size: 49,050 acres/198 km². Founded: 1916 (as a National Monument, as a National Park in 1919). Annual Visitors: 2.8 million. The oldest national park east of the Mississippi is one of the first places in the country to see the sunrise (about 50 minutes before dawn in the D.C. area). Park visitors trek to Cadillac Mountain, the highest peak on the Eastern Seaboard, to greet the day. Early visionaries who sought to protect this carved granite, coastal landscape included John D. Rockefeller Jr. He is responsible for carriage roads and trails that meander for use by hikers, horseback riders and bicyclists.
– Alexander Chee, novelist, in the New York Times
Acadia lies primarily on Mount Desert Island, which owes its name to explorer Samuel de Champlain, who called it “Isles des Monts Déserts” (island of barren mountains). Despite that early observation, the park’s glacially carved landscape is quite rich in nature and scenic panoramas, with many pine forests, ocean views and nine birding areas. Avian occupants include peregrine falcons and sharp-shinned hawks. Moviemakers have flocked here, as well. Scenes in “The Cider House Rules” and “Pet Sematary” (adapted by Maine native Stephen King from his own book) were filmed on park grounds. This is a shoreline park next door to the seaside resort town of Bar Harbor. Two beaches (one ocean with water temperatures for thick-skinned swimmers and one warmer, freshwater site) are available.
From The Washington Post – The Essential guide to all 59 U.S. national parks
Car-free carriage roads crisscross the Mount Desert Island’s interior providing bike and foot access to a wide variety of lush forests and hundreds of freshwater lakes and streams. Acadia – a great great outdoors location. But for those with a little less energy (or time) there’s always the a 27-mile (44 kilometre) Park Loop Road, the attention-grabbing section of the island’s 40-mile (64 kilometre) Acadia All-American Road, the fourth & final All-American drive of the wider road trip. The mostly one-way road encounters all of Acadia’s highlights with a spur road granting access to the highest highlight of them all, the summit of the island’s Cadillac Mountain. Walk or drive, it doesn’t matter. ‘Explore Acadia your own way’ is the advice from the park itslef.
– Reproduced from text on display overlooking Agamont Park, Bar Harbor
Ultimately we ended up at the top. Of course we did. Most people do.
The above is reproduced from a display encountered on the Summit’s Loop Trail of Cadillac Mountain, one of the country’s best stargazing locations thanks not only to the region’s remoteness but also community efforts like Bar Harbor’s night-sky-friendly lighting ordinance which aims to protect the star-studded skies overhead by limiting light pollution. Reading that answered one question but posed another – ‘so that explains luminously-challenged Bar Harbor, but what’s the excuse for the rest of New England?’ I wondered.
Race Point Beach, Provincetown, Cape Cod, Massachusetts.
“Driving the busy Interstates to & through the region’s largest city, Boston, and on to the spectacle of sandy, marshy Cape Cod and its National Seashore ensures a shift from forested New England to a sandy one. It’s still New England, it’s just a different kind of New England.”
Day 32 || October 28, 2017
Route || Portland, Maine to Hyannis, Cape Cod, Massachusetts.
Miles (Kilometres) Driven || 280 (450)
Today’s Highlight || Race Point Beach, Cape Cod
It was an altogether different kind of New England today, Epic US Road Trip 2017 Day 32 & the penultimate day of the road trip. It was a busier, brighter & less auburn & scarlet-hued New England than the one we’ve been accustomed to over the last week. Driving busy Interstates to & through the region’s largest city, Boston, and on to the sandy spectacle of Cape Cod and its National Seashore ensured a shift from a forested New England to a sandy one. It’s still New England, it’s just a different kind of New England.
It’s a 4-hour, 220-mile (355 kilometre) drive south from Portland, Maine to the tip of Cape Cod, Massachusetts. It was the busiest drive we’ve had in New England to date, not surprising really given that this is New England’s most populated region. En route we drove across a few state lines, drove through Boston, New England’s largest city, and drove across the Piscataqua River Bridge.
From the Piscataqua River Bridge & the Maine/New Hampshire state line there was a little less than 20 miles (32 kilometres) of Interstate 95 south through New Hampshire to the state line with Massachusetts, the penultimate state on the penultimate day.
dMb US State Digest
AN ORIGINAL THIRTEEN || One of the original Thirteen Colonies. Province of Massachusetts Bay, a crown colony chartered in October 1691.
(Commonwealth of) Massachusetts
State Nicknames – The Bay State; The Pilgrim State; The Puritan State; The Old Colony State; The Baked Bean State. State Motto Ense petit placidam sub libertate quietem (‘By the sword we seek peace, but peace only under liberty’). Admitted To The Union – February 6, 1788 (6th state). Population – 6.8 million Bay Staters/Massachusites/Massachusettsians (15th most populous state & New England’s most populous state). Area – 10,565 sq miles (7th smallest state). Capital – Boston (New England’s largest city). National Parks – 0. National Scenic Byways/All-American Roads – 1/0. Famous For – History; the Boston Tea Party; the Salem witch trials; the Red Sox; inventing basketball; chowder; being the birthplace of 5 US presidents; the Boston accent; the fist US state to legalise gay marriage (in 2004); learning & highly regarded academic institutions – Harvard University & MIT, both located in Cambridge, are regarded as among the top institutes worldwide for higher learning & academic research, and the state was ranked, by U.S. News & World Report, highest among all US states for standard of education. State Highlights – Boston’s Pioneering history Freedom Trail. Massachusetts Titbits – The state is named after the Massachusett tribe, the indigenous population which once inhabited the east side of the area; over 80% of Massachusetts’s population lives in the Greater Boston metropolitan area, a region influential upon American history, academia and industry; unsurprisingly, the largest ancestry group in Massachusetts are the Irish (22.5% of the population); in 1634, Boston Common became the first public park in the US & the city of Boston built the first subway system in the US in 1897; the birth control pill was invented at Clark University in Worcester, Massachusetts; the first public elementary school in America was established in 1639 in Dorchester, Massachusetts; the games of basketball & volleyball were created in Massachusetts (in the cities of Springfield & Holyoke respectively).
– MassVacation.com
I’m sure MassVacation.com are right on the money. Fall may be the best season to experience Massachusetts, but we didn’t experience the fall side of the state, more the sandy side. That’s Cape Cod.
Cape Cod & The Cape Cod National Seashore
A sandy peninsula occupying the southeastern corner of Massachusetts, Cape Cod was among the first places settled by the English in North America (settlements here date to the 1630s). An historic region with a distinct maritime character, the Cape became a summer haven for city dwellers beginning at the end of the 19th century and today is known for its celebrity-pulling resort islands of Nantucket and Martha’s Vineyard. Not only a playground for the well-healed, Cape Cod is, of course, renowned for its beaches – 550+ miles of pristine coastline make the Cape easily New England’s premier beach destination.
The Cape Cod National Seashore
One of the largest barrier islands in the world, the scorpion tail-shaped peninsula that is Cape Cod, severed from the mainland since 1914 by the 7-mile (11 kilometre) Cape Cod Canal, juts over 100 kilometres (65 miles) out into the Atlantic Ocean. While this shelters much of the mainland Massachusetts coastline across Cape Cod Bay from stormy North Atlantic surges, it also accounts for the 560 miles (900 kilometres) of sandy beach-infused coastline that makes the Cape the beach Eden that it is. A large swath (approximately 177 km²) of the peninsula’s northern reaches – comprising a 40-mile curve of the Atlantic-facing Outer Cape, from Eastham north to Provincetown – is preserved as the Cape Cod National Seashore. Administered today by the National Park Service, the land for the future Seashore, private town and state-owned land which had already been slated for housing subdivisions, was set aside for preservation in August 1961 by President John F. Kennedy, the most famous former Cape Cod resident of them all. Something of a trendsetter, the Seashore’s creation marked the first time the federal government purchased land for a park, its establishment preserving a treasure-trove of unspoiled beaches, dunes, salt marshes, ponds and woods.
Race Point
While there’s obviously water all around and it’s never far away, I was somewhat surprised by how sheltered one is from watery vistas when driving on Cape Cod. Rarely do you see the ocean from the peninsula’s dissecting Route 6, even when driving the narrower (& remoter) Outer Cape. However, that all changes when you reach Race Point. Suffice it to say, there’s no escaping the ocean up here. It – Race Point – is the end and it – the water – is all around.
– George R. Stewart commenting on Historic U.S. Route 6 in U.S. 40: Cross Section of the United States of America, 1953
– www.CapeCodLighthouses.info
Thomas Street, College Hill, Providence, Rhode Island.
“For such a small state, there are 45 National Historic Landmarks in Rhode Island, 12 in Providence alone. The city also boasts two whole districts of historic preservation totalling 166 properties. It became apparent rather quickly that this little city requires a disproportionate amount of sightseeing time in order to do it justice. You have been warned.”
Day 33 || October 29, 2017
Route || Hyannis to T.F Green Airport, Rhode Island.
Miles (Kilometres) Driven || 123 (198)
Today’s Highlight || College Hill, Providence, Road Island
Today started in nautical, preppy Hyannis and ended in historic Providence, Rhode Island. And when all was said & done, well, all was said and done. Epic US Road Trip 2017 Day 33: the last day; the last state line crossing into the last state (number 23); the last few miles (of 7,124); the last shutter clicks; and the last history lesson.
Before getting to the very end, we needed to discover a bit of Hayannis.
Massachusetts (MA) || There’s more to nautical & preppy Hyannis than its deep-rooted association with the Kennedy political dynasty. Of all Cape Cod’s 15 towns, this one, with a population of 14,000, is both its commercial centre and (watery) transportation hub providing convenient access to Nantucket Island & Martha’s Vineyard either via commercial or private services; as the Cape’s largest recreational boating port it shouldn’t be too hard to find passage either way. Aye Aye, captain!
The Kennedys & Cape Cod
In 1928, the Kennedys – Rose Fitzgerald Kennedy & her husband, wealthy businessman Joseph P. Kennedy Sr. – purchased a secluded 6-acre waterfront property on Hyannis Harbor in Hyannis Port, less than 3 miles from Main Street Hyannis. The property and its three houses, referred to today as the Kennedy Compound, would go on to serve as a gateway for what become one of the country’s most famous and distinguished (not to mention cursed) political families – John F. Kennedy, the second of Joseph & Rose Kennedy’s 9 children & the most (in)famous Kennedy of them all, would spend his summers here, use the compound as a base for his successful 1960 US presidential campaign and later as a summer White House and presidential retreat prior to his assassination in November 1963. While the compound itself, an historical landmark officially known as the Joseph. P Kennedy House, isn’t open to the public, Hyannis has plenty of Kennedy-related sites and places of interest, most of which are covered as part of the Hyannis Kennedy Legacy Trail, a self-guided walking trail between 10 sites detailing stories and the history of the Kennedy clan on Cape Cod.
We didn’t walk the trail but still managed to visit a few of its locations. It’d be hard not to when taking a look around Hyannis.
– A quote from JFK’s Radio and Television Report to the American People on the State of the National Economy on August 13, 1962 and as inscribed around the memorial’s reflecting pool.
– www.JFKHyannisMuseum.org
It was a relatively short 75-mile (120 kilometre) drive from Hyannis to Providence, Rhode Island, the final state.
dMb US State Digest
AN ORIGINAL THIRTEEN || One of the original Thirteen Colonies & the last to become a state. Province of Rhode Island and Providence Plantations established in 1636. Became a crown colony in 1679.
Rhode Island
State Nicknames – The Ocean State; Little Rhody. State Motto – Hope. Admitted To The Union – February 6, 1788 (6th state). Population – 1 million Rhode Islanders (8th least populous state). Area – 1,214 sq miles (smallest state). Capital – Providence. National Parks – 0. National Scenic Byways/All-American Roads – 0/0. Famous For – Being tiny; sailing (Newport claims the title of Sailing Capital of The World, although so does Annapolis, Maryland); chickens (the Rhode Island Red, the official state bird, revolutionised the poultry industry); making silverware and fine jewelry. State Highlights – Providence & nautical Newport. Rhode Island Titbits – Despite its name, the origins of which are unclear, Rhode Island is very much connected to the US mainland; it was founded in 1636 as a religious-tolerant settlement by a Roger Williams, he naming his site Providence (“having a sense of God’s merciful providence unto me in my distress”) having been banished from the Massachusetts Bay Colony for his religious views; progressive Rhode Island was the first American colony to abolish slavery (1652) and the first to declare independence from Britain (1776); keeping with the religious-tolerance theme, Brown University, founded in Providence in 1764, was the first college in America to accept students regardless of religious affiliation; also, the first Baptist Church & synagogue in America were founded in the state (in Providence in 1638 & in Newport in 1763 respectively); it may be the smallest geographically, but the state’s official title of ‘State of Rhode Island and Providence Plantations’ is the biggest mouthful of any US state; 1 million+ Rhode Islanders crammed into such a small area makes the state the 2nd most densely populated (after New Jersey); although only 37 miles (60 kilometres) wide by 48 miles (77 kilometres) long, tiny Rhode Island still boasts 384 miles (618 kilometres) of (mostly craggy) coastline; the state capital of Province is the only city in the US to have its entire downtown enlisted on the National Register of Historic Places; Rhode Island was the 2nd state to abolish the death penalty (after Michigan) & the 2nd to last to make prostitution illegal; the era know as The Industrial Revolution started in Rhode Island with the development and construction in 1790 of Samuel Slater’s water-powered cotton mill in Pawtucket; it’s the state is the only state to still celebrate Victory over Japan Day (VJ Day); bottoms up – Rhode Island, together with neighbouring Connecticut, never ratified the 18th Amendment, a.k.a. Prohibition.
– VisitRhodeIsland.com
Rhode Island (RI) || Founded in 1636 – by a religious outcast named Roger Williams who was banished from Puritanical Boston for his “extreme views” concerning freedom of speech and religion & who would later be credited, by none other than Thomas Jefferson and John Adams, for establishing the first practical working model of democracy & as the originator of the concepts and principles reflected in The First Amendment – makes Providence one of the oldest cities in the US. Suffice it to say that means history, which inviting & artsy Providence, New England’s third largest city, has in abundance, to say nothing of its photogenic array of National Register of Historic Places-listed architecture.
Time Needed
For such a small state, there are 45 National Historic Landmarks in Rhode Island, 12 in Providence alone. The city also boasts two whole districts of historic preservation totalling 166 properties. It became apparent rather quickly that this little city requires a disproportionate amount of sightseeing time in order to do it justice. You have been warned.
College Hill, The College Hill Historic District & Brown University
Whilst most of Downtown Providence – the central economic, political and cultural district of the city – is listed on the National Register of Historic Places (since 1984 as the Downtown Providence Historic District), so too is a large portion of the city’s College Hill neighbourhood of East Side Providence to the east of Downtown proper, College Hill Historic District (listed since 1970 and some of which overlaps with the Downtown Providence Historic District).
Brown University
Rhode Island’s most distinguished institute of higher education and research was established as the College in the English Colony of Rhode Island and Providence Plantations in 1764 making it the seventh-oldest institution of higher education in the US, one of the nine colonial colleges chartered before the American Revolution, and the third-youngest of the US east’s 8 elite Ivy Leaguers (only Dartmouth College & Cornell University are younger). Echoing the religious tolerance of the city’s founding charter, the college was the first in America to accept students regardless of their religious affiliation, it promising “no religious tests” and “full liberty of conscience” for all. The college changed its name to Brown in 1804, after the son of Nicholas Brown Sr. (1729-1791), a Providence merchant who co-founded the college. Today Brown is recognised internationally for the quality of its teaching and research and for its commitment to unique & exceptional undergraduate instruction.
Ivy League
With connotations of academic excellence, selectivity in admissions and social elitism, the Ivy League is a collegiate athletic conference comprising sports teams from 8 private institutions of higher education in the Northeastern United States – Yale University (New Haven, Connecticut), University of Pennsylvania (Philadelphia, Pennsylvania) , Princeton University (Princeton, New Jersey), Brown University (Providence, Rhode Island), Harvard University (Cambridge, Massachusetts), Dartmouth College (Hanover, New Hampshire), Cornell University (Ithaca, New York) & Columbia University (New York City, New York).
– A spirited line from the old Brown Cheering Song in reference to the Brown University mascot.
But wait, there’s more. It is said that the pedestal of Brown’s The Bronze Bruno statue contains a piece of slate that Roger Williams stepped on in 1636 when claiming the land on which he would found Providence. Noting this, the back of the pedestal displays: “This is a piece of the slate rock/on which Roger Williams Landed/when he came here in 1636/to holds forth his lively experiment of independence with strength & courage./May his spirit live in Brown men.”
The End – For Now
Quite coincidentally of course, but we ended our Epic US Road Trip 2017 on the last day doing exactly what we did to start its first full day – exploring the campus of a New England Ivy League university (Yale in New Haven, Connecticut, on Day 2, Brown University today, Day 33). In between there were some 7,100-plus miles of driving through over 20 states. It’s all done for now, but we’ll be back, this time on the West Coast to complete the trilogy. That’ll be epic too. Of course it will. We know of no other way.
NEW ENGLAND / NORTHERN COLONIES || Connecticut
DAY 01 110 miles || T.F Green Airport, Rhode Island, to New Haven, Connecticut
MIDDLE COLONIES || Pennsylvania, New Jersey, Delaware, Maryland & Washington D.C.
DAY 02 312 miles || New Haven to Gettysburg, Pennsylvania
DAY 03 098 miles || Gettysburg to Lancaster, Pennsylvania
DAY 04 149 miles || Lancaster to Atlantic City, New Jersey (via Amish Country & Philadelphia)
DAY 05 201 miles || Atlantic City to Washington D.C. (via Lewes, Delaware & Annapolis, Maryland)
SOUTHERN COLONIES || Virginia, The Carolinas (North Carolina & South Carolina) & Georgia
DAY 06 206 miles || Washington D.C. to Richmond, Virginia (via Monticello, Virginia)
DAY 07 240 miles || Richmond to Manteo, North Carolina (via Williamsburg & Jamestown, Virginia)
DAY 08 003 miles || Outer Banks – Manteo, North Carolina
DAY 09 003 miles || Outer Banks – Manteo, North Carolina
DAY 10 038 miles || Outer Banks – Manteo, North Carolina
DAY 11 032 miles || Outer Banks – Manteo, North Carolina
DAY 12 274 miles || Manteo to Wilmington, North Carolina
DAY 13 192 miles || Wilmington to Charleston, South Carolina (via Myrtle Beach, South Carolina)
DAY 14 285 miles || Charleston to Macclenny, Florida (via Savannah, Georgia)
THE SOUTH || Florida, Alabama, Louisiana, Mississippi & Tennessee
DAY 15 397 miles || Macclenny to Mobile, Alabama (via Tallahassee, Florida)
DAY 16 167 miles || Mobile to New Orleans, Louisiana (via southern Mississippi)
DAY 17 480 miles || New Orleans to Fort Payne, Alabama (via Meridian, Mississippi)
DAY 18 142 miles || Fort Payne to Sparta, Tennessee
DAY 19 121 miles || Sparta to Nashville, Tennessee
DAY 20 070 miles || Nashville
DAY 21 198 miles || Nashville to Knoxville, Tennessee
KENTUCKY & THE GREAT LAKES || Kentucky, Ohio, Michigan & New York
DAY 22 307 miles || Knoxville to London, Kentucky (via Maynardville & Sneedville, Tennessee; Coeburn, Virginia; Jenkins & Hyden, Kentucky)
DAY 23 376 miles || London to Dayton, Ohio (via Sandy Hook & Olive Hill, Kentucky & Greenfield, Ohio)
DAY 24 393 miles || Dayton to Erie, Pennsylvania (via Michigan & Toledo & Cleveland, Ohio)
DAY 25 430 miles || Erie to Lake George, New York (via Cooperstown, New York)
NEW ENGLAND / NORTHERN COLONIES & CANADA || Vermont, New Hampshire, Quebec & New Brunswick (Canada), Maine, Massachusetts & Rhode Island
DAY 26 143 miles || Lake George to Montpelier, Vermont (via Ticonderoga, Crown Point & Westport, New York & Burlington, Vermont)
DAY 27 213 miles || Montpelier to Franconia, New Hampshire (via Barre & Chelsea, Vermont & Lincoln, New Hampshire)
DAY 28 253 miles || Franconia to Quebec City, Quebec, Canada
DAY 29 326 miles || Quebec City to Woodstock, New Brunswick, Canada
DAY 30 330 miles || Woodstock to Bar Harbor, Maine
DAY 31 244 miles || Bar Harbor to Portland, Maine
DAY 32 280 miles || Portland to Hyannis, Cape Cod, Massachusetts
DAY 33 123 miles || Hyannis to T.F Green Airport, Rhode Island (via Providence, Rhode Island)